WHY DOES HAIR COLOUR TURN BRASSY, AND HOW CAN YOU MAKE IT STOP?

A huge concern for almost anybody with hair colour from dark blonde to crisp white is how to stop the cheap brassy look.

If your hair is naturally dark and you’ve been colouring closer to blonde, you’ll be familiar with the endless battle against orange. You’ve probably tried every gloss, colour shampoo and  toner on the market and you’ve probably bleached your hair more times than you should have, only to find that all you’ve done is compromise the health of your hair, (and your bank balance).

The big mystery lies in why this happens in the first place. Scientists say it’s down to the different types of melanin found in the hair shaft. Dark hair, for example, has two different types of melanin and when they come into contact with peroxide; instead of heading straight to blonde, they pass through an awkward red/orange phase. The darker your hair is the harder it will be to get past this stage without upsetting the condition of your hair. This is where we begin to use toners to conceal what lies beneath. However, as I’m sure you already know, this will fade more with each shampoo.

As the colour fades, the broken down melanin is revealed and the dreaded brassy tones come creeping in. Fortunately, there are now a number of ways you can counteract this.

Start by taking notice of the ingredients in your hair care routine . You should be avoiding any shampoo that contains sulphate or alcohol. These ingredients will encourage your hair to oxidise, opening up the cuticle (outer layer of the hair) and allowing the colour to fade more quickly. Using a shampoo with a violet pigment will help to neutralise and ‘cool down’ any unwanted tone. If you alternate this with a colour safe shampoo you will stretch out the time between needing to re-colour and save on hair health, time and money.

In our experience the best shampoos on the market to maintain a cool colour  are L’oreal Expert Series Silver shampoo and Shu Uemura Color Lustre shampoo.


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